Sophia Delgado
There are two types of nail polish: traditional nail polish and gel nail polish. Traditional nail polish dries as the solvents it contains evaporate into the air, while gel nail polish is cured using a UV or LED lamp. The UV light causes a chemical reaction that makes the polish harden, or cure, almost instantly. The blue light used in nail salons is a UV lamp, which emits UVA light, the least harmful of the three types of UV light. This light is used to cure gel nail polish.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Purpose of blue light | To cure gel nail polish |
| Types of lamps | UV or LED |
| Gel polish drying method | Harden using a lamp |
| Normal nail polish drying method | Air dry |
| UV light | Causes chemical reactions |
| LED lamps | Faster curing, less heat |
| UV lamps | More power, wider working area |
| Safety concerns | Exposure to UVA radiation |
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What You'll Learn
The difference between gel polish and regular nail polish
The main difference between gel polish and regular nail polish is that gel polish needs to be cured under a UV or LED lamp to harden and set, while regular nail polish dries naturally when exposed to air. Regular nail polish is a liquid-based formula that is applied directly to the nails and dries as the solvents it contains evaporate. This process can be lengthy and even when the polish feels dry, it may still smudge or chip.
Gel polish, on the other hand, contains special molecules called photoinitiators that absorb UV light and undergo a chemical reaction, causing the polish to harden or cure almost instantly. This creates a durable, glossy finish that can last for weeks without chipping. The process to apply gel polish is similar to a traditional manicure, with the addition of curing each layer of polish under a UV or LED lamp. This makes gel manicures more expensive and time-consuming.
Another difference is that regular nail polish is available in a wider range of colours, finishes and brands, whereas gel polish offers extended wear and a high-gloss finish. Regular nail polish is also easy to apply and remove, making it convenient for those who like to change their nail colour frequently. In contrast, gel polish lasts longer without chipping and strengthens nails, but it can be more difficult to remove and may require a trip to the salon.
It is worth noting that some companies market normal nail polish as "gel nail polish", which can be confusing for consumers. True gel polishes will usually have instructions on the bottle indicating the need for curing under a lamp, such as "LED 1 min".
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How to cure gel nail polish
Curing gel polish requires some intensive training to master. However, with the right technique and patience, you can learn to cure your gel polishes perfectly every time. Before curing, it's important to understand what gel polish is and why it needs to be cured.
Gel polish is a type of nail polish that is cured and hardened with a special UV or LED lamp. This process is known as polymerization, where the molecules in the gel polish bond together to form a solid layer of colour that won't chip or wear off easily. The UV light causes a chemical reaction that makes the polish harden almost instantly. The light has to be specifically blue because the wavelengths of UVA light are perfect for triggering the photoinitiators in gel nail polish, causing them to break their bonds and initiate the polymerization process.
To cure gel nail polish, you need to follow some important steps. Firstly, it is ideal to paint and cure one hand at a time, and it is recommended to paint and cure each finger separately, starting with the index finger. This prevents smearing and ruining your gel polish. Secondly, brush the gel polish in thin layers until you reach an opaque colour, which usually requires 2-4 coats. Thin coats will also cure faster and prevent a bumpy finish. Remember to cure each coat under the lamp, including the base and top coats, so they can all be adequately sealed for long-lasting results. Finally, when the light turns off, you know your cycle is finished, and it's time to remove your hands from under the lamp.
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The pros and cons of UV and LED lamps
Gel nail polishes require a specific spectrum of light to cure them, chemically hardening the polymer. This can be achieved using either a UV or LED lamp. While both lamps cure gel polish, they do so in different ways, offering varying speeds, safety, and overall results.
UV Lamps
UV lamps emit ultraviolet radiation, which is the same type of radiation emitted by the sun and in tanning beds. UV light has unique properties that separate it from the visible light we see every day. It is particularly good at causing chemical reactions, which is crucial to how UV nail lamps work. When the lamp is switched on, the bulbs emit UV light, which is then absorbed by the photoinitiators in the gel polish. This absorption triggers a polymerization reaction, where smaller molecules (monomers) link together to form larger structures (polymers). The result is a durable, glossy finish that can last for weeks without chipping. UV light comes in three forms: UVA, UVB, and UVC. Of these, UVA has the longest wavelength and is the least harmful, while UVC has the highest energy and can be extremely harmful. Thankfully, UVC is absorbed by the Earth's atmosphere, and UV nail lamps predominantly use UVA light, which is much safer.
LED Lamps
LED stands for light-emitting diodes, which emit light that is both visible and invisible. LED lamps are thought to be faster than UV lamps at hardening polish. They cure gel polish in about half the time of UV lamps, taking only 30-60 seconds compared to 120 seconds for UV lamps. LED lamps also have longer bulb lives, consuming less energy and producing less heat. They operate at cooler temperatures, resulting in less heat damage to the skin and nails. Additionally, LED lamps do not contain harmful chemicals like mercury, which is commonly found in UV lamps. While LED lamps emit minimal UV radiation, it is still important to take precautions when using them, such as wearing protective gloves or applying sunscreen to the hands.
Both UV and LED lamps have their advantages and disadvantages. UV lamps may be useful when working with a wider range of gel formulations, but they can cause discomfort due to higher heat levels and require frequent bulb changes. On the other hand, LED lamps offer faster curing times, longer-lasting bulbs, lower heat emission, and a more comfortable experience. However, they may not be compatible with all gel polishes, and it is important to ensure the lamp's energy output matches the specific gel being cured.
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The safety of UV nail lamps
Gel nail polishes require a specific spectrum of light to cure them, chemically hardening the polymer. This is done using either a UV or LED lamp. The UV light causes a chemical reaction that makes the polish harden or cure almost instantly.
UV light comes in three forms: UVA, UVB, and UVC. Of these, UVA has the longest wavelength and is the least harmful. UVB is more dangerous and is mostly responsible for sunburns and some forms of skin cancer. UVC has the highest energy and can be extremely harmful but is absorbed by the Earth's atmosphere. UV nail lamps predominantly use UVA light, which is much safer than UVB or UVC. However, UVA has been linked to both premature skin aging and skin cancer. The Skin Cancer Foundation recommends applying a broad-spectrum (UVA/UVB) sunscreen to hands 20 minutes before exposure to UV light.
Some studies have found that the UV nail polish dryers used in salons can damage DNA and lead to cancer-causing mutations in human cells. Researchers at the University of California San Diego found that nail dryers cause cells to die and cause mutations that could lead to cancer. However, the spectrum of UV light used in nail dryers has not been well-studied, and long-term epidemiological studies are needed to determine the exact harm caused by nail lamps.
To protect your skin during manicures, it is recommended to use sunscreen or wear fingerless gloves. This is especially important for people who get manicures regularly, as the effect of UV exposure is cumulative and gets worse with each exposure.
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Alternatives to gel nail polish
If you're looking for an alternative to gel nail polish, there are several options available that don't require the use of a blue light. Here are some alternatives that you can consider:
Regular Nail Polish
Regular nail polish is a good alternative if you don't want to use a UV or LED lamp. It dries through evaporation and doesn't require any special equipment. Look for long-lasting formulas that are less prone to chipping and pair them with a quick-dry top coat to speed up the drying time.
Sticker Nail Polish
Sticker nail polish, or nail strips, are an innovative alternative to traditional nail polish. They are easy to use and come in various fun designs. You simply clean your nails, find the right size sticker for your nail bed, press it down, and trim any excess. Some brands offer sticker nail polish that is free from toxic ingredients like formaldehyde, Toluene, and Dibutyl Phthalate (DBP).
BIAB Nails
BIAB stands for "Builder in a Bottle" and is a type of manicure that falls between gel and shellac in terms of consistency. It hardens under a UV lamp but is easier to remove than traditional gel manicures, which can damage your nails over time. BIAB gel can be gently removed at home by roughening the surface, applying nail polish remover, and wrapping your nails in aluminium foil.
Hypoallergenic Nail Polish
If you're allergic to the acrylates in gel nail polish, there are hypoallergenic options available. Brands like Bioseaweed Gel and West Coast Dips offer nail polishes that are absent from many common allergens. It's important to consult a doctor and get an allergy panel done to identify specific allergens and choose the right products for your needs.
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Frequently asked questions
Yes, you need a UV or LED lamp to cure gel nail polish. The blue light emitted by these lamps helps to harden the polish, creating a durable, glossy finish.
Gel nail polish contains special molecules called photoinitiators that absorb UV light and undergo a chemical reaction, causing the polish to harden and cure almost instantly.
Yes, some brands of gel polish do not require a UV or LED light to cure. Regular nail polish is another alternative, which dries through evaporation and does not require a lamp.
