Caleb Foster
Gel manicures are a popular choice for those wanting long-lasting, chip-free nails. However, the process of applying and removing gel nail polish can be damaging to natural nails. The curing process, which involves placing the hands under a UV or LED lamp, is known to increase the risk of skin cancer. Additionally, the prep work and filing involved in gel manicures can thin the nail plate, and the removal process can leave nails feeling sensitive and prone to splitting. To maintain nail health, dermatologists recommend taking breaks between gel manicures, moisturising the nails and cuticles, and being cautious about the tools and techniques used during the manicure process.
Are gel nails bad for your natural nails?
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Damage to natural nails | Temporary nail damage is common, but the cumulative UV exposure is worse. |
| Prep work | Filing can thin the nail plate. |
| Removal | Gel nails should not be picked at or peeled off. Soaking in acetone is the best way to remove them. |
| Cuticles | Cuticles should not be cut or pushed as this can lead to inflammation and infection. |
| Nail health | Nails need to be kept hydrated and moisturized to prevent chipping and brittleness. |
| Skin health | Gel manicures can cause skin aging and increase the risk of skin cancer due to UV exposure. |
| Alternative options | Traditional manicures, peel-off polish, gel-effect polish, non-toxic natural nail polish, dip powder nails, and press-on nails are some alternatives to gel manicures. |
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Gel nail polish removal
Gel nail polishes can be tough on nails. While gel nail polishes themselves do not damage nails, the prep work (filing) can thin your nail plate. Removing gel nail polish can be done at home or at a salon. Dermatologist Shari Lipner, MD, FAAD, recommends a few ways to safely remove gel nail polish at home without damaging your nails.
Soak-off method
The most effective way to remove gel nail polish at home is to use acetone. Dr Lipner recommends using plastic food wrap instead of wrapping your nails in foil. Acetone can damage sinks, countertops, and furniture, so it is important to line your work area with plastic wrap. Then, place a thick towel on top. It is easier to work on one hand at a time. First, apply a thin layer of petroleum jelly to each cuticle and the surrounding skin to protect the skin from the drying effects of acetone. Then, use a coarse nail file to file down the gel top coat until the top coat loses its shine and smoothness. Next, soak cotton balls in acetone and place them on top of your nails. Wrap the nails with plastic food wrap and leave it on for 10 minutes. When you remove the plastic wrap, most or all of the gel nail polish should be gone. Remove any remaining gel nail polish with a washcloth that you've just run under warm water. Wash your hands or feet with gentle soap and water to remove the acetone.
Gel nail polish remover
Another option is to use a gel nail polish remover. This method is faster and simpler than the traditional acetone method and requires fewer tools. It is also gentler on the nails and does not require an acetone bath. First, use a coarse nail file to file down the gel top coat layer until the top coat is no longer shiny and smooth. Then, apply a thick layer of gel polish remover to your gel nails, being careful not to get it on your skin. After about five minutes, you will see the edges of the gel polish start to peel, crack, bubble, or burst. Use a metal cuticle pusher or an orangewood stick to gently push the gel polish off each nail. Finally, clean your nails with a nail buffer.
Letting your nails grow out
Dr Lipner also recommends letting your nails grow out. Clipping your nails once a week will help remove the gel nail polish and prevent your nails from catching on clothing and other objects. This method can take about six months for fingernails and 12 to 18 months for toenails. It is important to resist the urge to pick at your gel nail polish, as this can damage your nails.
In-salon removal
If you are unable to remove your gel nail polish at home, you can make an appointment with your manicurist to have it removed.
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Prep work and filing
While gel nail polish itself does not damage your nails, the prep work and filing can thin your nail plate. It is important to be cautious during the preparation process to avoid over-filing your natural nails.
Before applying gel nail polish, ensure your nails are clean and dry. Use a nail file to shape your nails gently. Always file in one direction, following the natural shape of your nails. Avoid sawing back and forth, as this can cause splitting and weakening.
When filing, focus on the tips of your nails, avoiding the centre and sides of the nail bed. Be careful not to over-file, as this can lead to thinning and sensitivity. It is recommended to use a soft nail file, such as a foam or soft grit file, to reduce the risk of over-filing.
After filing, buff your nails lightly to create a smooth surface. This will help the gel polish adhere better and create a more even finish. Again, be gentle and avoid over-buffing, as this can also thin the nail plate.
Finally, apply a nourishing base coat to protect your nails and help the gel polish last longer. Allow the base coat to dry completely before proceeding with the gel polish application.
Remember, moderation is key when it comes to gel manicures. Give your nails breaks between gel applications and consider using traditional nail polish or gel-effect polish as an alternative.
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Cuticle care
While gel manicures can be beautiful and long-lasting, they can be tough on nails. The prep work, such as filing, can thin your nail plate and lead to sensitivity. The process of removing gel nail polish can also be damaging, with many people reporting that their nails get shredded during the removal process.
To keep your nails and cuticles healthy, it is important to keep them moisturized. Dermatologists recommend applying a thick moisturizing product, such as ointments or creams, to the cuticles several times a day. Petroleum jelly (Vaseline) is an inexpensive and effective way to care for the cuticles. However, some people may find it impractical to use during the day, as it can be messy. Lotions can be used as an alternative, as they are less greasy, but they may not be as moisturizing.
It is also important to note that cutting the cuticles is not necessary, as it does not make them grow faster. Instead, use an orange stick to gently push them back. This will help prevent infection, as cutting the cuticles can increase the risk.
To protect your nails and cuticles from drying out, wear gloves when doing dishes or other household chores that involve harsh chemicals and acidic cleaners. These can erode your nails and cuticles. Additionally, opt for an acetone-free nail polish remover, as acetone can also dry out the nails and cuticles.
Taking care of your cuticles is an important part of maintaining healthy nails. By following these tips, you can ensure that your cuticles and nails stay moisturized, protected, and infection-free.
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Nail hydration
Gel manicures can be tough on nails, causing brittleness, peeling, and cracking. The repeated use of UV light to set the gel can also increase the risk of skin cancer and premature skin ageing on the hands. Therefore, it is important to take good care of your nails and skin before, during, and after gel manicures.
- Moisturise: Apply a moisturising product such as petroleum jelly or cuticle oil to your nails and cuticles several times a day. This will help minimise brittleness and prevent your nails from chipping. Cuticle oil can deeply hydrate and nourish the nails, making them stronger and more flexible.
- Nail Polish Holiday: Take a break from nail polish for one to two weeks or longer to allow your nails time to repair and rehydrate.
- Be Proactive with Your Manicurist: Communicate with your manicurist to ensure the proper care of your nails. Ask if the tools are sterilised and ensure that they are cleaning and disinfecting the tools after every client.
- Avoid Cuticle Cutting: Do not let your manicurist push or cut your cuticles, as this can lead to inflammation and infection.
- Protect Your Skin: Before getting a gel manicure, apply a broad-spectrum, water-resistant sunscreen with an SPF of 30 or higher to your hands. This will help protect your skin from the ultraviolet radiation used to seal gel nail polish. Alternatively, wear dark, opaque gloves with the fingertips snipped off before applying the nail polish.
- Avoid Picking Nail Polish: When the gel nail polish starts to come off, do not pick at it or use other nails or tools to remove it. Make an appointment with your manicurist to have it removed properly.
- Soak Fingertips in Acetone: When removing gel nail polish, only soak your fingertips in acetone instead of your whole hands or fingers. This will protect the surrounding skin. You can also use cotton balls soaked in acetone and wrap small pieces of aluminium foil around your fingertips.
- Consider Traditional Nail Polish: If you experience recurring nail problems or are allergic to acetone, consider using traditional nail polish instead of gel polish. Acetone is required to remove gel polish and can be harsh on the skin and nails.
- See a Dermatologist: If you notice any unusual changes to your nails or have persistent nail problems, consult a board-certified dermatologist.
Remember, moderation is key when it comes to gel manicures. By following these nail hydration tips and caring for your nails, you can enjoy gel manicures while maintaining healthy and hydrated nails.
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UV exposure
The use of UV nail lamps in gel manicures has raised concerns about the potential health risks associated with UV exposure. UV nail lamps emit ultraviolet radiation, which is also found in natural sunlight and is known to cause skin cancer. The cumulative UV exposure from regular gel manicures may increase the risk of skin cancer and premature skin ageing on the hands.
A study published in Nature Communications in January 2023 found that radiation emitted by UV nail polish dryers can damage DNA and cause mutations in human cells. The researchers exposed human and mouse cell lines to UV light from nail polish dryers, and the results indicated significant cell death and DNA damage. These findings suggest that the UV exposure from gel manicures may contribute to an increased risk of skin cancer.
To mitigate the potential risks associated with UV exposure during gel manicures, some people choose to apply sunscreen to their hands before the procedure. Additionally, wearing gloves, such as fingerless gloves or UV gloves, can provide added protection. It is also recommended to limit the frequency of gel manicures and to be cautious when removing the gel polish, as improper removal can damage the nails.
While the probability of developing skin cancer from UV nail lights is considered low, the risk increases with cumulative exposure. Therefore, it is advisable to take precautions and limit UV exposure when possible. More research is needed to definitively establish a cause-and-effect connection between gel manicures and skin cancer risk.
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Frequently asked questions
Yes, gel nail polish can be bad for your nails. The prep work (filing) can thin your nail plate and the curing process can lead to an elevated risk of skin cancer. Additionally, the removal process can damage your nails if not done properly.
Before getting a gel manicure, apply a broad-spectrum, water-resistant sunscreen with an SPF of 30 or higher to your hands to prevent skin cancer and premature skin aging. You should also ensure your manicurist is cleaning and disinfecting their tools after every client.
There are several alternatives to gel manicures, including traditional manicures, peel-off polish, gel-effect polish, non-toxic natural nail polish, dip powder nails, and press-on nails.
